Wardrobe Orphans

God, I hate February. Every year it’s the same. Several months into winter but knowing that there’s several months ahead of you. Everyone’s sick. It’s cold, dreary, grey and you’re constantly getting sent pictures from your brother, who lives in Sydney, of blue skies, blue water, sunshine, beaches and tans.

Ugh.

And this year it doesn’t look like we’re going to get any snow, so there’s not even that fun to look forward to. I really think I was born to live in a place with year round summer - or at least close to it.

Sorry, envious, self-indulgent moan over.

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Anyway, moving on from misery, let’s talk about Wardrobe Orphans. Those loved items of clothing that languish in your closet despite your affection for them because you just can’t decide how, or with what, to wear them.

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Enter this shirt. It’s TPC20 from Trend Patterns (which can be made into a shirt or a dress) in a really lovely striped Bengal cotton shirting from the The Fabric Store online. I absolutely love it. The large statement collar, the wide elbow length sleeves, the huge cuffs, as well as the volume of the shirt. All of which make a big statement and coupled with the dramatic stripe, I think are really striking.

Although, after my wonderful, but perennially and proudly and highly amusingly inappropriate and rude brother-in-law mentioned, it looks like something a referee would wear, I can’t get that image out of my head. This doesn’t help with the below.

The problem is I’m incredibly particular about how colours, silhouettes and styles work together and with this I just don’t know how to wear it.

I think this type of volume on top requires a slimmer or tapered leg. Enter the only pair of pants I have that fit vaguely this description, but then the hem hits me at exactly my widest part and I don’t think looks particularly great.

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To resolve this, I think I might remove the hem-tie and wear it tucked into high-rise pants, but again all my slimmer leg pants are RTW and the supposed high rise is never high enough on me to actually fit the high-rise requirement.

Perhaps greater contrast in colour would also help.

I think, therefore, I need to make some more pants: which, as much as I love making pants is an annoying situation to be in. Having said that I did just order some gorgeous bull denim from Blackbird Fabrics to make the TPC Utility Trousers, again from Trend Patterns. Sophie and Shauni’s versions are totally wonderful.

I also have a plan to make another version of McCalls 7754 View C in black denim (I have a bubblegum pink pair I made in the summer which fit so beautifully but never made it to the blog), so with a proper high rise and tapered leg, we might be in business. Eventually.

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I’m also going to make the dress version of this in the Spring. It’s gorgeous. And won’t require outfit back up.

I’ve a few of Trend’s patterns and I really like her aesthetic. Modern with interesting shapes and details. The instructions aren’t hand-holdy - assuming you have a fairly decent sewing knowledge already - but they are really clear and very easy to follow. The covered placket on this, for example, was a doddle.

The only thing I didn’t love was the sleeve construction. The turn up is made - really cleverly I might add - before the sleeve inseam is stitched which means you end up with the seam running all the way to the end of the sleeve. This in turn means you have to be super precise to ensure you have a smooth line around the end of the sleeve, which is normally avoided by the hem or cuff being stitched as the final stage of the sleeve.

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Due to the sleeves’ wide design this can be seen when waving ones arms around - which is absolutely within my overly expressive, hand gesticulating nature. That all said, with the cuff made the way it is, I’m not sure there would be another way to finish it - or at least I haven’t tried to figure one out.

I have very few Wardrobe Orphans. It makes me happy that I usually get the balance of what I need with what I want to make about right. So I suppose the only solution to this problem is to keep on making things that fill the gaps. Oh well, that will help dispel that February malaise somewhat!

Do you have wardrobe orphans?

How would you wear this shirt?

See you soon x

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Salmon Pink Baggy Pants. On the Roof!

There's this tension when writing a blog post after you've been MIA for a while; does one apologise profusely to the entire webisphere for deigning to not spout rubbish for a whole four months; give long lists of reasons as to why life got in the way; or just ignore the fact and pick up where you left off as you do with your oldest friend who you haven't seen for two years?

So not knowing how to address the awkward situation I've just created, I'll just waffle for a bit and then get on with the matter in hand - Salmon Pink Corduroy Baggy Pants.

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I've had a pretty patchy few months of sewing, some major bursts of productivity and then weeks and weeks when everything just gathered dust. There have been some incredible personal ups (going to Australia for Christmas to visit my brother and his family; buying an apartment!!!) and some downs (finally getting treatment for my crippling depression; not managing the stress of packing up for the move to said new apartment at all well.) But slowly I seem to be emerging through the difficulties of 2017 and the chaos of the first part of 2018 with a plan and energy and a focus that have been missing for far too long.

Realising long held sewing plans is one of the things that helps me feel I'm moving forward rather than stagnating. For several months now I've been pushing these trousers around my head; inspired by a beautiful rose pink pair from Mr Larkin that were way out of my budget league.

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So let's just firstly address the fact that these aren't a gorgeous soft rose pink, but an orangey, coral, just about salmon pink instead, which is not nearly as charming or wearable and could be deemed just plain ugly.

Then let's look at the garment as a whole and be honest and say, Charlie, they really don't do much for you - leg lengthening they certainly aren't - and they are in fact pretty ridiculous.

And then let's ignore all of that because they are super comfortable, super warm, I super don't give a stuff if I look ridiculous and I super love them.

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I used Vogue 8836 for these and jumbo cord from New York Elegant Fabrics. They're made without modification other than fitting, and I added the belt. The details are what make these I think - the do nothing pocket flaps, the belt, the silver button and D-ring accents, the pleats, and the turn ups. The latter two were massively helped by the hive mind on Instagram. I'd pretty much finished them and was disappointed, but after making the pleats face the other, correct, way (face palm), adding belt loops, and using scraps to lengthen them and create the turn up - hiding the seam inside the turn up - they were transformed. Well maybe that's a bit strong, but epically more wearable.

I have made this pattern before - it's a good, very simple pattern with excellent instructions for the fly front - out of a floral rayon, which had the potential to be amazing. 

But. This was in the early days of the pants fitting learning curve and I added so much to the rise that the crotch was a good 4 inches below where it should have been and try as I might I just can't resolve that situation. (I should add that after trying to link to the pattern on the Vogue website unsuccessfully, it might be out of print.)

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I've managed to get the fit of these pretty spot on, knowing now the key things that I need to do to get the crotch fit right and knowing what I can alter as I sew and what I need to get right at the pattern alteration stage.

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For these photos, inspired by Nina Ricci, I decided I absolutely had to wear a lace bodysuit with them. Clearly I don't have lace bodysuits. Who has lace bodysuits? So I made one lined with bamboo jersey and featuring not very stretchy stretch lace.

Fitted (crop) tops with baggy bottoms served me well in the 90s so why not now (with less of the crop) as we're all so fully immersed in a 90s revival. Scrunchie anyone?

In further homage to my 90s self, I've also taken to wearing these with an enormous mid thigh length turtleneck cable knit sweater - so there's that too.

Perhaps I'm being driven by a play of textures; corduroy, lace, shiny patent and then a seersucker jacket. I'm increasingly moving away from prints and towards creating interest through shapes, textures and playing them all together. You can just about see the lace below.

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The bodysuit is made with Closet Case Patterns Nettie pattern with fabric from Mood and is the third thing I've made using this pattern in as many months. I've avoided it for ages as I could not get past the cute but painful experience of the cream picot one I wore constantly aged 16. Unsurprisingly, it turns out it's the perfect pattern to go with all the wide legged / oversized bottoms I love. And because I can add to the body length and it's got the low hip shape it's really comfortable.

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And I absolutely love the neckline and scoop back, so feminine and flattering which balances the more masculine trousers I think.

Checking out the fire trucks

Checking out the fire trucks

Let's also talk about pink shall we. I can't seem to get enough of it at the moment, a pink coat, pink jumpsuit, pink trousers and I have a Seamwork Neenah dress in the works that I had to restrain myself from making in pink french terry. That might still happen but I'm trying to only use fabric I already have.

Oh, and I'm desperate for a pale pink velvet sofa too. For my new pad. Where these photos are taken. On the flipping ROOFDECK!

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Seriously. I hope that's not too braggy but I have to keep pinching myself! I can see the Freedom Tower, The Chrysler Building, The Statue of Liberty (if you stand on tiptoe and squint through the trees) and of course not forgetting the iconic Brooklyn-Queens Expressway. 

Aside from the general all round unbelievable wondrousness of this actually being home, it also means if I can't face it, I no longer need to stand in the street with a remote and a camera fending off weird looks from passersby and hurriedly taking blog photos where I look totally stiff because I'm so embarrassed. 

So, I feel like I've managed to navigate the large gap between blog posts by clumsily embracing all three of aforementioned methods of which to deal with said gap.

I'm hoping, in between the day-to-day and apartment renos, and now I'm feeling more able to cope with life, I'm going to be a more regular blogger again. I miss doing it regularly, I love writing and sending myself out into the web not quite knowing who reads and who cares. It's kind of narcissistic, but I do know I miss my favourite bloggers when I haven't heard from them in a while.

So, I will see you soon xxx

I made a hat. And went on a march. And before that I made a skirt.

I haven't really been sure how to write this post. I absolutely want to tell all the lovely people who relate when I say sewing keeps me sane, and come here to read about fabric and stitching about the sumptuous velvet skirt I made (see details below). But, also, given that the majority of lovely people who do come here are women, I have to mention the stunningly powerful thing women all around the world did last weekend. The Women's March.

I knit a Pussy Hat and I got on caravan of buses and I went to DC. To show that I am not prepared to accept the archaic, bigoted and dangerous policies of the new administration. To show solidarity. To stand with the millions of other women, and men, who feel that basic human rights and equality are at stake.

I have always seen myself as a well-informed, liberal person who is not afraid to stand up to defend myself when required. But mostly, as a white middle-class woman, there aren't so many times that is required. I protest vehemently on Facebook (to other mostly white, middle-class people), I've marched a couple of times for things that matter to me and I always exercise my right to vote, but I've never actually "needed" to be politically active. 

And then I went to DC and I realised that whether I need things or not, is not the point. I am a woman, so I should help defend the rights of all women. I am an immigrant, a privileged, white immigrant, so I should be helping defend the rights of all immigrants, especially those who don't have the "benefit" of my skin colour or background. I have never had an abortion but I know many women who have and I should defend their right to do with their body what they choose with the same ferocity I defend my own right to choose what happens to my body. I have children who I was lucky enough to carry and give birth to in a country where pre-natal care is free, non-judgmental and available to all (that being the UK not the US). So I should speak up so that others have that right no matter where they live or who they are. 

Somebody enabled me to have all of those things. They didn't just happen. People, women, protested, sacrificed and were well aware that the changes they achieved might not happen in their lifetime; but they did it because it was right. 

For the first time in my life I understand that it's not enough to just nod and agree and talk. If I believe in true equality for everyone; believe in the fact that a human being can not be illegal; believe in keeping others' minds and hands off my and my daughter's bodies, then I have to DO something.

And so I'll be doing. And when I'm not I'll be sewing. (Because I'm a woman and we can do and be anything and everything.)

Here's the pretty skirt (details at the bottom):

The Sewing Stuff:

  • Top is a modified Named Clothing Inari Tee - I used the V neckline from Papercut Patterns Sway dress as the template for the neck. I made a facing to correspond to that and omitted the sleeve cuffs.
  • The sandy black silk charmeuse is from Mood Fabrics.
  • The absolutely beautiful fluid, shiny, mushroom grey silk velvet for the skirt is from Chic Fabrics, which I believe is sadly closing. It was only $15 / yard.
  • The pattern is adapted from a 1970s shirt dress pattern (Vogue French Boutique 1860 from the Renata line) that was my mums and I also used for the skirt of this dress.
  • I added a 1 inch elastic waistband, stretching and serging the elastic to the waistband and skirt fabric, before folding the waistband in on itself to create even gathers.
  • The pockets are lined with dark grey cotton voile.
  • I finger pressed all the seams and steamed them with the iron and catch stitched the hem.

I hope my political enlightenment wasn't too much for a sewing blog and to see you soon. xx