The Big Easy Top

Need a quick sewing fix? Like, the quickest sewing fix? That doesn’t involve pesky stretch fabrics?

Can I make a suggestion?

Get yourself The Big Easy Top pattern from The Makers’ Atelier and some boiled wool.

Better yet, get yourself the kit, then you don’t even have to think about fabric, or thread. It just all arrives at your door and approximately half an hour later you have a warm, chic, beautifully drafted sweater to add to your winter wardrobe. And you won't have to knit it!

In my case it was a year and half an hour, because despite the fact this is the quickest and most satisfying make ever, it sat at the bottom of my sewing list last winter and then it was Spring and who wants to sew wool in the Spring.

(This is the second item I have made from this line of patterns - the first being this coat.)

Normally I’m not that bothered by how quickly I can sew something, but when my sewjo is on the wane, I need something quick and satisfying to enable me to tackle those dungarees I’ve had loitering for a few weeks. 

So, I made up the funnel neck version. This involves two shoulder seams and two side / underarm seams, a couple of tacks to hold the collar in place and sewing in a label so I don’t wear it backwards. Easy-peasy-lemon-squeezy.

The wool is beautiful quality, its not scratchy although not as soft as I’d prefer, but I think that goes with the territory with boiled wool.

I made a couple of minor alterations; a forward shoulder adjustment and I stitched down my seam allowances, because I like the detail and I wasn’t sure how the wool would react to my iron. Oh and my iron has gone the route of the three irons I’ve had in the last three years. That is to say the automatic turn off gets fed up with my reliance on it and turns the thing off permanently. So I couldn’t iron it even if I had wanted to.

Whether you iron it or not, this glorious pattern is smart, is warm and is oh so quick.

See you soon x

(ps: nothing going on here other than I’m a huge fan of the patterns by The Makers Atelier and feel I should spread the word about their hugely wearable chic simplicity.)

Copycat: Dressing for ice cream. But not maths.

So, I think approximately 15 years ago, I wrote this post about my next planned copycat, which I duly made and loved and haven't worn or photographed or written about.   Finally, I've got my behind in gear and here she is, in all her chintzy, florally, acid green glory.

I hate admitting this as I like to think I'm smart and can do anything, but I am singularly rubbish with numbers.  I struggle with times tables and it takes me a phenomenally long time to work out any mathematical conundrum. I vividly remember the ridiculous length of time it took me to master simultaneous equations at school and how immensely frustrating I found the whole thing (I did however get 98% for something or other related to my maths GCSE which just goes to show what being a hard-working geek can get you). 

The point of me telling you this is that I had to use my incredibly non-math(s) oriented brain to work out the pleating on my skirt.  It took me longer to do that than it did to make the skirt. And the sweater. Combined.

My fabric was 45 inches wide and I only had about two yards of it.  I intended to use the entire length of the fabric so the skirt would be mid-calf - which seems to be a theme round here at the moment - and a width each for the front and the back.  This totally dictated the size and number of pleats (rather than the other way around). 

As you can see from the above photo, my workings - even with guidance from how to do this on various websites - went on and on and on.  I had to play around with the width of the pleat - I originally wanted 2 inch pleats - and the number so that I could get a skirt that fitted around my waist.  The maths went on. 

And on. 

And on. 

And then I got fed up with myself and left it alone for a few days.  And then I had to start all over again as I couldn't remember where I'd got to.  Finally, I found my formula (shown in the celebratory box at the bottom of the page).

I could only fit seven one and a half inch pleats in each width of fabric and this left quite a bit of non-pleated fabric on each width.  Fortunately, this actually worked to my advantage as I used the non-pleated bits either side of the side seams.  This creates less bulk on my hips, which as a pear-shaped lady, is always a winner.  I also stitched down the first inch and a half of the pleats, again to create a smoother top of the skirt and reduce bulk.

After the fifteen maths years, the skirt was so quick to put together.  I finished the seams with my serger, didn't bother to line as the fabric (from The Fabric Store in LA) is lovely and soft and very opaque and pretty heavy.  The waistband is a simply inch and a half rectangle, which I interfaced and then stabilised with some petersham ribbon as a waist stay that I left peaking out from beneath the waistband as it's so pretty.  I usually finish waistbands by slipstitching the facing closed, but I thought some wonky topstitching would finish the band nicely so I used that method instead. 

An invisible zipper on the side and a sweet domed clear plastic button - one of the many I have bought in the search for the perfect buttons for this dress - which I still haven't found incidentally - created the fastening.  Given the fabric is so thick, I decided to hem with tape.  I've never hemmed like this before so I went to town with a fancy scalloped machine stitch to attach the tape to the raw edge and then an invisible catch stitch.

And there she is the inspriation and my replica.  Pleated, chintzy, floral joy, just waiting for a green sweater, ridiculous necklace and an ice cream.

Except I was too lazy/ overdressed to walk the half block to the ice cream place to get a proper ice cream so hideous popsicle from the freezer will do instead.  And I'd taken my sweater off for this photo, but you get the idea ....

I mentioned when planning that just at the time I was thinking how I could recreate this vision of loveliness the April issue of Seamwork came out and my wishes were answered in the form of Astoria. Then whilst in Mood I found this bright bright bright textured green ponte, which I'm still not sure about. But I've found the top works OK with this skirt but actually looks great with a lovely pair of wide legged ankle swingers I own.  

And if I don't look down too much my eyes don't hurt, so that helps. 

I like this pattern and it was super fast to make. I'll probably make it again in a more wearable colour, but again I had ease issues as it would look much better if I went down a size or even two.

Incidentally, my green silk eucalpyt goes perfectly with this skirt.  Who would have thought I'd make two items of clothing that actually go with each other!

I love love love this skirt, but I think I might have mentioned before that my life doesn't really warrant an army of fancy pleated skirts and aside from that it's been 30 degrees and 80+% humidity recently which equates to far too warm to wear such deliciousness, even if accompanied by ice cream.  I'm holding out for September when I get back from my travels and booking in lots of grown up evenings out so I can wear the heck out of it.

See you soon x